Watch world news

Trends

Small watches are coming back into fashion

After many years of popularity of large cases, the market is increasingly moving towards compact models.

Today, more and more collectors are choosing watches with a diameter of 34–38 mm, and models such as the Rolex Datejust 36, Cartier Tank, and Santos Medium are experiencing a new wave of popularity.

Experts attribute this trend to the growing popularity of the "quiet luxury" style and a return to restrained classics.

👉 It seems that the era of large watches is gradually fading into the past.

Events

Richard Mille owner sued after $1.4T750,000 watch stolen at Formula 1

A Texas businessman has accused Formula 1 and Circuit of the Americas organizers of inadequate security after his Richard Mille RM 65-01 "LeBron James" was stolen from his hand during the US Grand Prix.

According to the lawsuit, the day before, at the same stage, criminals stole another Richard Mille in a similar way. The victim claims that the organizers knew about the risk, but did not warn guests or increase security measures.

👉 This case has once again drawn attention to the problem of targeted thefts of luxury watches at major international events.

Curiosities

A curiosity at the World Cup: a player tried on the referee's watch

In the Turkey-Paraguay match at the World Cup, referee Iván Barton lost one of his referee watches during a fight between players.

Paraguay midfielder Matías Galarza spotted the watch on the pitch, picked it up and put it on his wrist, and started pressing buttons instead of immediately returning it to the referee. He returned the watch a few minutes later.

The video instantly went viral. Social media users called the episode «the craziest moment of the World Cup,» and many users initially thought the player had really stolen the watch. In fact, it was a short joke, and the referee did not punish the player with a yellow card.

Auctions

Battery-powered wall clock sold for more than a Ferrari

During the 2026 auction season, one of the most unexpected lots was an FP Journe promotional wall clock that once hung in one of the brand's authorized boutiques.

The most surprising thing is that this watch:

• was not made by the FP Journe manufacture;
• operated from a regular AA battery;
• was just an advertising element for the store.

Despite this, a real battle broke out between collectors, and the final price exceeded 200,000 CHF, although it was estimated at only 10,000–20,000 CHF before the auction. This is more than many new Ferraris cost.

Industry

Now everyone can assemble their own mechanical watch

British brand Studio Underd0g has opened The D0ghouse, a space where visitors can assemble their own mechanical watch under the guidance of a professional watchmaker.

Over the course of approximately 4 hours, participants assemble the movement, dial, hands, and case, then undergo a final inspection of the watch. At the end, each participant takes home an exclusive Studio Underd0g 01Series Guava model, available only through this program.

💷 The cost of such an experience is £700.

Novelty

Off-White has released its own watch collection for the first time

After years of successful collaborations, the Off-White brand, founded by Virgil Abloh, has officially debuted in the watch industry with the launch of its first TIME collection.

The debut line includes five different models: PROTO, BEAT, HEAVY DUTY, STREET BLING and AFTER HOURS. The design uses Off-White's signature elements - transparent cases, Crossed Arrows motif, industrial style and geometric shapes.

Prices start at $145 for quartz models, while the most expensive version with an automatic movement costs $475. The brand also said that the collection will be regularly updated with new colors, limited editions and special editions.

👉 This is the first time that Off-White has fully entered the world of watches, turning them not only into an accessory, but also into part of its design concept.

Novelty

Breitling dedicates new chronograph to the legendary Aston Martin DB5

Breitling has unveiled the Top Time B01 Chronograph 41 Tribute to Aston Martin DB5, the first watch created under its new partnership with Aston Martin. Inspired by the iconic 1963 DB5, which became the symbol of James Bond.

The new model has received many details that refer to the car:

• a wooden insert on the inner ring of the dial inspired by the DB5 steering wheel;
• dials stylized as the dashboard of a classic Aston Martin;
• brown leather strap in the style of a car interior.

The collection consists of three limited editions:

• steel — 1,022 copies;
• steel with platinum bezel — 315 pieces;
• 18K red gold with a natural onyx dial — 250 pieces (the first time Breitling has used onyx).

Inside is the in-house Breitling B01 caliber, COSC-certified, with a power reserve of 70 hours. The rotor with the Aston Martin logo is visible through the sapphire caseback.

👉 A reference to 1965, when Sean Connery as James Bond wore a Breitling Top Time while driving an Aston Martin DB5 in the movie Thunderball — one of the most talked-about premieres of July.

Novelty

Over 1.2 million people competed for the rarest MoonSwatch

Swatch has unveiled the MISSION TO THE MOON 1969, the most exclusive MoonSwatch model in the collection’s history. In honor of the first manned moon landing, the brand has produced just 1,969 pieces, and the dial, hands, crown and pushers are made of 18-carat Moonshine™ Gold, made from remelted Omega parts from 1969.

But the biggest hype was not caused by the watch itself, but by the way it was sold. Instead of the usual queue, Swatch launched a special ESTA application: everyone had to answer 32 questions, after which only the chosen ones were given the right to buy.

🤯 In just a few days, the brand received over 1.2 million applications for 1,969 watches — that's over 600 applicants for one piece. The results began to be announced only at the end of July.

👉 One of the most high-profile launches of the year, which once again proved: interest in MoonSwatch remains phenomenal even several years after the collection's debut.

Market

38% Rolex watches are not authenticated

Despite Rolex being the most popular brand on the platform, accounting for 28% of all sales, 38% of the Rolex watches that sellers send to buyers do not undergo final authentication.

Each watch undergoes a multi-level check:

• first, the ad is analyzed by artificial intelligence;
• after the sale, the watch goes to Bezel experts;
• check the case, dial, hands, mechanism, bracelet, serial number, completeness and compliance of all parts with a specific reference;
• They separately check the serial number against international databases of stolen watches and test the operation of the mechanism.

The most common reasons for refusal:

• ❌ fakes;
• 🔧 Frankenwatch — watches assembled from parts of different models;
• 📝 false description of the condition;
• ⚙️ non-original or replaced components;
• 🚨 watches that are in stolen databases.

👉 This statistic once again shows how important it is to buy luxury watches only from trusted sellers with professional authentication.

Celebrities

Drake showed off a unique Rolex Daytona for $1.45 million

Drake unveiled a one-of-a-kind Rolex Daytona «Ice Gradient» — an exclusive watch created especially for him in honor of his record-breaking achievements in 2026. Rolex gifted him this unique piece.

The watch is made of 18K white gold and is fully set with precious stones. The bracelet has a gradient effect: from clear diamonds to deep blue sapphires. The caseback is engraved with "Freeze the World".

According to experts, the Rolex could be worth up to $1.45 million and is available in only one copy. Drake himself called it a «one of one» and asked jewelers not to try to recreate the design.

History

Rolex Wimbledon: More than just a dial

The dark gray slate dial with green Roman numerals is one of the most recognizable versions of the Rolex Datejust. Collectors call it the Wimbledon, although Rolex itself does not officially call it that.

And the name is no coincidence. The green color of the numerals is reminiscent of the grass surface of Centre Court, and Rolex itself has a special connection with the tournament: since 1978, the brand has been the official timekeeper of Wimbledon. It is the only Grand Slam tournament that is still played on grass today.

How did he appear?

The Wimbledon dial was first introduced in 2009 on the Rolex Datejust II 41mm, ref. 116333. Back then, it was one specific configuration—steel and yellow gold, fluted bezel, and Oyster bracelet.

Rolex later carried this design over to the Datejust 41 and Datejust 36, and the number of available configurations has grown significantly—today, there are options in different metals, with different bracelets and bezels.

Why is he so popular?

Because Wimbledon is a rare occasion when a watch has actually become part of Rolex’s sporting history. Three strong associations work together here: Rolex + Wimbledon + tennis.

And the distinctive combination of slate gray, black, and green has made this Datejust one of the most recognizable modern Rolexes.

👉 And the most interesting thing: Rolex never officially called it Wimbledon. This nickname was born among collectors - and became so popular that today it is used by almost the entire watch market.

Novelty

MB&F Introduces HM12 The Guardian — A Watch That Becomes a Robot

Swiss brand MB&F has once again proven that watchmaking has no boundaries. The new HM12 The Guardian is not just a watch, but a true mechanical sculpture.

The design consists of almost 1,500 parts and is equipped with a tourbillon. The most interesting thing is that the watch case can be mounted on the head of a 38-centimeter mechanical robot, which has movable arms, a magnifying glass for inspecting the mechanisms and even a UV flashlight for checking the lumen.

Only 36 copies will be released worldwide, making the new product one of the most exclusive releases of the year.

💰 The cost of the set is about 280,000 CHF.

👉 At a time when most brands are competing for classic design, MB&F continues to create watches that more closely resemble works of art from the future.

Novelty

Louis Vuitton has created a watch in the shape of a soccer ball

To celebrate the 10th anniversary of its partnership with UNICEF, Louis Vuitton has introduced a unique mechanical watch that exists in only one copy.

The novelty is decorated with 264 diamonds and is equipped with a movement from L'Epée 1839 with a power reserve of up to 8 days. Instead of a traditional dial, the time is displayed using two rotating cylinders hidden inside a sculptural gold dome.

The product took hundreds of hours of manual work to create, and its design combines high watchmaking, jewelry craftsmanship, and a football theme.

Most importantly, the watch was created for a charitable purpose. All proceeds from its sale will go to support UNICEF programs that help children in different countries around the world.

👉 One of the most expensive, rarest and most extraordinary watch projects of 2026.

Industry

Rolex opens free watchmaking academy in the US

Rolex has officially opened its own watchmaking academy in Texas, where students will be able to learn one of the rarest professions in the world for free.

The reason is quite unexpected: today there are fewer than 2,000 professional watchmakers working in the United States, while the demand for service and repair of luxury watches continues to grow.

The training program is designed to train high-level craftsmen who will be able to work not only with Rolex, but also with other Swiss brands.

The most interesting thing is that graduates of the academy can expect a salary of about $95,000 per year, and experienced craftsmen often earn significantly more.

Experts believe that the opening of the academy is not just an educational project, but an investment by Rolex in the future of the entire watch industry.

👉 In a world where more and more processes are being automated, the watchmaking profession remains one of the few where human skill still has no full replacement.

Brands

The legendary Universal Genève returns

After more than 30 years of almost complete absence from the market, Swiss brand Universal Genève officially returned in 2026.

For the relaunch, the company introduced 36 new models at once and developed three in-house movements from scratch — a step that only a few, even among major Swiss brands, dare to take today.

For many collectors, Universal Genève is more than just another watchmaker. In the mid-20th century, the brand produced iconic models, including the Polerouter, created by legendary designer Gérald Genta before he designed the Royal Oak and Nautilus.

At one time, Universal Genève was considered one of the most prestigious Swiss brands alongside Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, and its vintage models now regularly appear at major international auctions.

Experts are already calling the return of Universal Genève one of the most important events in the watch industry in recent years.

👉 Time will tell whether the brand will be able to regain its former glory, but the start looks extremely ambitious.

Market

Rolex is reducing production of some models

After several years of record demand, Rolex has begun to gradually reduce production of certain models. Analysts estimate that 2025 will be the second consecutive year that the brand has reduced watch production.

The reason is the cooling of the market after the boom of 2021–2023. On the secondary market, many popular Rolex models no longer display their former premiums, and some references are even trading below retail price.

However, this does not mean problems for the brand. On the contrary, Rolex continues to increase its share in the Swiss luxury watch segment and remains the undisputed market leader.

Experts believe that in this way the company is trying to maintain a balance between supply and demand, maintain the exclusivity of its models and avoid oversaturation of the market. Control over production has remained one of Rolex's main tools for many years.

Interestingly, despite the general cooling of the market, certain models, such as the Daytona, GMT-Master II, and some rare references, still remain extremely scarce and are sold with multi-year queues.

👉 Many collectors are already calling 2026 the beginning of a new phase of the market — less speculative, but healthier for true watch connoisseurs.

Novelty

Omega releases watch for new James Bond game

Omega has introduced the new Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph «007 First Light» — the first watch in the brand’s history that was originally created for a video game and only then became a real model.

The watch appears in the new 007 game First Light, where a young James Bond uses it as one of his spy gadgets. In the game, it even comes equipped with electronics hacking features and a laser.

For the real release, Omega created a full-fledged chronograph in a 44 mm steel case with the Co-Axial Master Chronometer 9900 caliber, water resistance of 300 meters, and a special strap inspired by the game.

Interestingly, this is the first chronograph in the Seamaster line to be officially associated with James Bond. Before that, Agent 007 only wore classic Seamaster diver models.

💰 The cost of the new product is about $9,400.

👉 It seems that watch brands are increasingly entering the world of video games, where a new generation of collectors and buyers of luxury watches is being formed.

Market

The luxury watch market is gaining momentum again

After almost two years of decline, the secondary luxury watch market is showing the first signs of recovery.

Over the past year, the average cost of individual models: Patek Philippe has increased by approximately 18%; Rolex - by 9%; Cartier - also by about 9%.

Demand is particularly strong for rare, limited-edition models and watches that have already been discontinued. These are the pieces that are attracting the most attention from collectors and investors today.

Analysts note that after a prolonged market correction, buyers are returning to quality assets with long-term value. Unlike the 2021-2022 boom, the current growth looks more stable and natural.

There is particular interest in the Rolex Daytona, GMT-Master II, Patek Philippe Nautilus, and Cartier Santos models.

👉 Many experts believe that 2026 could be the beginning of a new growth cycle in the collector watch market.

Market

Cartier has become Rolex's main competitor among young buyers

Just a few years ago, Rolex was the undisputed favorite among luxury watch buyers. However, in 2025–2026, the market began to change.

According to analysts and major watch platforms, Gen Z and young millennials are increasingly choosing Cartier, with the Tank, Santos, and Panthère models growing in popularity in particular.

The reason is simple: young buyers are increasingly looking for less large sports watches and are increasingly paying attention to understated designs, smaller cases, and the concept of «quiet luxury.» These characteristics have long been Cartier’s calling card.

Interestingly, the share of Cartier purchases among Gen Z on the Chrono24 platform has increased from 1.7% to 6.8% over the past few years, and the brand itself has become one of the most sought-after among young collectors.

However, it is too early to talk about a victory over Rolex. Rolex remains the most popular watch brand in the world, but Cartier has already firmly established itself as the main alternative for a new generation of buyers.

👉 It seems that in 2026, status is no longer determined by the size of the watch, but by its style.